17 October 2007

Haute HoroscopeTM: Libra


"Libra is ruled by Venus, the planet of love, beauty and social grace. Libra governs partnerships, the arts, and making sense of relationships. It is an air sign. Therefore, Libran people seek aesthetic pleasure, balance in relationships and a harmonious environment. Libra colors are ivory, pink (or rose), turquoise, and blue. A traditional birthstone for Libra is the blue sapphire." from www.integratelearning.org

Ahhhh Libra... It is my favorite time of year. The weather is gorgeous: cool enough to break out the boots now and then, but still warm enough to go out on the town at night without piling on outfit-crushing layers. Libra, being about balance, loves the middle - the in between: feminine but not frilly, alluring but not overtly sexy, subtle and muted embellishments. Check out these Libra-inspired looks made at Polyvore.



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15 October 2007

"Runways Fade to White" A Repost from the NY Times

"[I]f there is one area where the lessons of chromatic and racial diversity have gone largely unheeded, it is fashion. This reality was never plainer than during the recent showings of the women’s spring 2008 collections in New York and Europe.

Although black women in the United States spend more than $20 billion on apparel each year, according to estimates by TargetMarketNews.com, it was hard to discern an awareness of this fact on the part of designers showing in New York, where black faces were more absent from runways than they have been in years." Click here to read the rest of the article by Guy Trebay...


It's funny. I tend to be fairly racially aware, but I hardly noticed this. I like to call myself someone who doesn't see color when it comes to fashion, but perhaps I'm just kidding myself. Maybe my brain is so thoroughly washed that I only think I don't see. I'm a black woman, with natural hair, who loves the sun, et cetera. Still I never really wanted to be a caricature of an angry black woman with nothing to say outside of the subject of race. I want to appreciate the beauty of a blonde hair or a blue eye without feeling resentful, guilty, or self-hating. The reality remains, however, that popular standards of beauty are very very narrow. Perhaps I should be not more angry, but more vocal about the exclusive representation of beauty in the fashion world. Honestly, I prefer to be more occupied with the clothes than the models, but it must be said: WE WANT MORE MODELS OF COLOR ON THE RUNWAYS!!!!! Okay, did anyone hear that? Anyone? Bueller?

Black models seen on the runways this season. With the exception of Chanel Iman, They really were hard to find. I didn't realize it until I tried.

Alek Wek in Diane Von Furstenberg
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Naomi Campbell in Louis Vuitton
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Chanel Iman Robinson in Etro
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Liya Kebede in Derek Lam
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Ajama Nasanyana in Charles Nolan
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Honorine Uwera in Baby Phat
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10 October 2007

Paris Spring 2008: Trendspotting

It's true that Paris is not The Cult's favorite fashion week, but it cannot be denied that the city is still at the helm of the fashion world. Shows in the City of Lights tend more toward the avant garde than in any other of the four best knows fashion weeks (New York, London, Milan, Paris). Accordingly, the French capital is the best place to do a little trendspotting. Some of what you see here will be in New York too... in about 3 years.

Trend 1: Suddenly See-Thru
This is one of those maddening trends that taunts and teases the average fashion-lover. Sure, if you a runway-strutting model, or a daredevil red carpet dweller, this is great. But for us everyday smucks, this see-thru crap is about as useful as cup with the bottom cut out.

A.F. Vandevorst
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Christian Dior
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Karl Lagerfield
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Andrew Gn
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Celine
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Trend 2: Extreme Asymmetry
We're not talking a crooked hemline or a one shoulder gown here. I mean, it-looks-like-two-completely-different-outfits-sewn-together kind of asymmetry. This, too, is hard for us common folk to pull off. But it a lot less likely to get you a public nudity charge.

Chloe
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Commes Des Garcons
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Yohji Yamamoto
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Yves Saint Laurent
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Trend 3: Over-the-Top Florals
Aack! It seems that someone has over-fertilized the fashion soil for next year, because the floral prints have run an absolute muck. Not only are there tons of flowers, there are tons of colors and tons of print mixing. This is an extremely delicate look to pull off. Some of the models couldn't even do it.

Dries Van Noten
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Paul & Joe
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Nina Ricci
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Balenciaga
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Kenzo
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Trend 4: Color Gradation
There must have been some kind of new technology that made this kind of fabric easier to make. Or maybe it's just one of those "spontaneous" resurgences in such things as rainbows. Anyhow, color shifting garments are h ho hot.

Alexander McQueen
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Givenchy
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A.F. Vandevorst
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Anne Valerie Hash
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Trend 5: Future Fix
After several seasons of being mired in retro looks, fashion is turning again toward looking ahead. Designers are present the suppositions on what will be chic post-Jetsons and Star Trek.

Alexander McQueen
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Balenciaga
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Celine
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Maison Martin Margiela
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01 October 2007

Spring 08: Milan!!!

Yes, I know I skipped London (most of it was a bore), but I haven't the patience to cover it before getting on the Milan (The Cult's favorite fashion city).

6267
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Bluemarine was a pzchofrenic monster of collection with an odd mishmash of lace, sequins, sportswear, ugly ugly florals, and dayglo color. Still, there a few worthy standouts.
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I like this look, but the model's body looks awful in it.Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at PhotobucketPhoto Sharing and Video Hosting at PhotobucketPhoto Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Bottega Veneta
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Byblos: Faeries in powersuits. As a whole, one of my favorite collections.
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C'N'C Costume National
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Daks by Giles Deacon
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Etro. Many collections this seasons have gone wild with color and pattern mixing, to varying degrees of success. Some have got an artsy funk appeal, some are kinda crazy rave cool, some are just ugly. Etro achieves a bit of artsy crunch, but is still chic. Eighty likes.
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More to come...


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17 September 2007

Award Show Wrap-Up: MTV VMAs & The Primetime Emmys

Celebrities tend to play it safe at a show as big as the Primetime Emmys. Style critics await the red carpet, eager to rip on the smallest missteps in hair, makeup or dress. Some even refer to the event as the "Superbowl of fashion." Hmm... I wouldn't go that far, but it is fun to see the stars put on their shine.

Katherine Heigl
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There was a lot of red on the carpet last night, but Heidi Klum's had the sharpest edge. The dress has some funky angles, but Klum wears it with ease.
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Becky Newton was on a few worst-dressed lists, but I love it. The dress is extreme but she was smart to keep the accessories minimal. Very pretty.
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Jamie-Lynn Sigler
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Sarah Chalke
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You'd think an award show like the VMAs would be the perfect place for celebs for show out with their fashion. Unfortunately, such rare occurences were even few and farther this year - and in Vegas, no less! There were only a couple even worth mention.

Rihanna continues to impress with her new, edgier style. Thank goodness they let her break away from the Beyonce-clone look they had her in when she broke onto the scene. Whether it was her idea or strategy from The Team, it's working.
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Alicia Keys look a bit plastic in this shot, but I love the dress and that dramatically long braid (can't see it, but trust me, it's there).
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TI? TIP? I don't know and don't really care. This man cleans up nice.
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Dig the Peter, Bjorn and John bags... not sure about those. And they are a bit casual for an award show, but still pretty chic.
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New York, Spring 08 Shows: The Cult Picks

Alexandre Herchcovitch stands apart for the typical New York-showing line. The couture-esque designs seem more like something that might show in Paris. That said, the Cult is glad to have it stateside to break the boredom of sportswear and starlet-produced fashion. The tux trend has been brewing for a few seasons now, with the cumberbun making a frequent appearance in the spring shows. Herchocovitch does it obtusely well with bare shoulders, short shorts, and bowties.





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Proenza Schouler looked, at times, like a Fall show with the sleeves and tights ripped off. Still, I'm loving the warm weather layering, vest-on-vest thing going on. The design duo must be too distracted by all that Target cash, because this line didn't do much in the way of forwarding fashion. Careful not to rest on those laurels too long boys. The fashion world is worst that music when it comes to dumping it's once-adored golden guys and girls.



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And then the detestable one shoulder dress, which fashionistas are trying to shove down our throats these days. Now and then I see one that tolerable, but their generally presence on the scene is a nuisance.Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket.





Doo.Ri was absolutely yummy. In a season when fuschia and cerulean are all the rage, the beige and black of Doo.Ri seemed to speak loudest of all. The lines are clean, but the cuts are striking. This wins my vote for best innovation. It's somehow futuristic without looking like a line of Jetson cartoons. Hooray for forward thinkers!




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With all the blase red carpet fashion we've witness in the last few days, where was Jason Wu? His designs seem perfect for the celebrity worship events. Let's hope that when asked that inevitable question on the carpet, more starlets will be replying, "I'm wearing Wu."





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And finally, kudos to Tracy Reese for taking some risks and adding some funk to her usually ladylike and pretty box. I'm loving the color combos, the patterns, the sequins, and even that frighteningly red Red Suit. Go brown girl, go brown girl, go!




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Honorable mentions to

L.A.M.B.,
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Malandrino,
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and Temperly.
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06 September 2007

Icon Spotting: Jack & Meg White

Jack White & Meg White, of The White Stripes, hold a particularly unique niche in the world of popular music. Their brand of modern blues rock is at once classic and cutting edge. The duo's style is evident in both sound and sight: timeless.

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The only thing hotter than a rock star, is a rock star with real style. As per my current obsession with all things cowboy, this photo of Jack White solo makes me drool. The rocker isn't what I'd normally call "my type" but this shot is just beautiful.
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11 August 2007

Fashion in Art: C Beijer's "Kingston Options"

One of C Beijer's photo-like fantasies. Click for more...Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


The pattern mix and 70s vibe in the painting are very now. Myself, I'd probably skip the cheetah print... and the guns.