In our modern, “civilized” world we prize language very much. We huddle around our tribal national tongues with pride and, sometimes, savage protection. We use assessments of language to categorize, to separate, to marginalize, to reward. It’s all very important to us and yet language has time and time again been an utter failure on a mass scale.

As you know, I tend to see things through fashion goggles, so the case of designer John Galliano’s alleged anti-Semitic tirade is an acute illustration of my above assertion. First, the major controversy is not that the designer was drunk in public (he was just over the legal limit) or even that there was, reportedly, some hair pulling. The big kerfuffle is over the alleged verbal insults. So violence and chemical indulgence are apparently no big deal. But for goodness sakes don’t call people names!

Secondly, it was the contents of the claimed insults that made this incident into a global story. The “victims” of the circumstance claim that Galliano screamed “Dirty jewish face, you should be dead!” and “Fucking Asian bastard, i will kill you!” What if we replace “jewish” with “freckle” and “Asian” with “blond” or any other adjective to describe a physical characteristic? Curiously, most news reports only highlight the alleged anti-Semitism and few, if any, make conjecture on whether the designer might be an Asian hater. Another side of the story says that Galliano was, indeed, insulting the accusing pair, but only with words like “bitch” and “ugly” – you know, things within the realm of political correctness.

Vogue Italia EIC Franca Sozzani gives flesh to this sentiment in a short interview with Cathy Horyn. “I’m so against anyone that could say something anti-Semitic, against religion,” says Sozzani. “You can say, ‘You’re a bitch,’ ‘You’re terrible,’ but nothing about religion.” Language has failed here in that if designer said what he is accused of saying, it probably had nothing to do with religion. Yet that connotation has been carried over into the public dialogue and will likely stay there by virtue of it’s ability to elicit emotional reactions. The editor also expresses a little confusion over the word “suspension” in reference to Dior’s immediate reprimand of Galliano. Hear her statements in the video below.

It is also worth noting that British-born Galliano is said to have spoken both French and English during the incident. The native languages of the accusers (names Bloch and Virgiti) are not known, but it’s easy to see how a few meanings could have gotten conflated in translation. It’s impossible for anyone that wasn’t a part of the exchange to properly judge the situation (though many will do so anyway). Even the folks involved likely have views of what happened that are clouded by alcohol and emotion.

What’s really significant is the demonstration of how language – a few poorly chosen words – can divide and discombobulate. Upon hearing the story thousands and maybe millions of people made snap judgments and took sides. Some in the fashion press even stated outright that star actress Natalie Portman would probably dump her chosen Dior dress for the upcoming Academy Awards ceremony because of this incident. Meanwhile, we’re all wondering what will happen with the Dior Fall 2011 show set to walk during Paris Fashion Week on March 4. One too many mojitos and a moment of divodom and a worldwide mess ensues. Dammit, Language. You’ve screwed us again.

Galliano portrait photo via State of Lux

Another season of Haute Couture has just closed and the fashion ultra-elite are placing their orders. The market for the highest form of fashion is smaller than ever these days, with a mere 200 women bestowed with the means and access to don the most honored vestments of the Fashion Cult. My how I wish other clergy would operate in this way: lead by example, not violent proselytizing. Above: a look from Zuhair Murad Couture.

Our Daily Bread: Everyday couture for the discerning young woman. Jean Paul Gaultier has always been one to push the limit of fashion into a realm of sartorial poetry. This year his metaphor evoked a feeling of armor meets vulnerability. I’m not sure if the hardness was meant to be coming or going, but the blue dress below, for example, is that perfect medium. A comfortable solution that would standout in its impeccable appropriateness for wherever the day takes you. Similarly, Thimister’s caped dress in military green is packed with structure but flows with the body so as not to distract the wearer from the mission at hand (groceries, bookstore, mani-pedi…). Thimister’s collection leaned heavily on the going trend of making us all into soldiers of one sort or another. If you’re among these troops, elegance is as honor on the list of priorities.

Jean Paul Gaultier & Thimister

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Power Dressing: Few of us marry the means to make couture a part of daily life; and even fewer are born into it. Rather, many a Priestess must use shrewd intellect and fierce intention to carve out a life of grace. Accordingly, the business meeting is an event (or skill, if you like) that must be approached with strategy and precision. John Galliano presented a Dior collection that will allow even the non-equestrian woman to enter the business domain on a steed of confidence. Paired with a black pencil skirt the jacket below is the best of business meets pleasure. The Armani Prive collection was the absolute embodiment of female power dressing and symbolized feminine virility with a series of moon shapes. The frock seen below utilizes a more subtle version of the shape, with strong shoulders and a daringly deep v neck. Divine. Remember ladies – it’s the boardroom, not the BORED room. Nip that waist in, powder your decolletage, and stride in to your spot at the head of the table – wiles and all

Christain Dior & Armani Prive

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A Social Calling: Like it or not, anointed ones, the World needs you. The Cult needs you. You may feel, sometimes, like shutting yourself away from most of the hustle, a majority of the bustle, and every bit of the falsity that is encountered with social duties. Still, the heavily blessed must in turn bless others – even if only by their presence. Elie Saab is a master at creating gowns perfect for the step and repeat. But the glamorous and sexy Saab-factor isn’t just for the red carpet. See yourself shining amongst a sea of floral shift dresses at your next luncheon or garden party wearing the adorable mini dress, below left. It has just enough coverage to be demure and day appropriate, without sacrificing a drop of glamour. Despite a largely disastrous collection (and since we prefer to focus on the positive, we’ll say nothing more of it), Valentino did muster one or two dresses that sparked some desire. The barely-there mini below is a fun and flirty alternative to ubiquitous cocktail party LBD.

Elie Saab & Valentino

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The Grand Occasion: There are times when a social call is more than just an event, it’s a Moment. On these grand occasions something extra special is required. We’ve been hard on Karl Lagerfeld in the past, but it can’t be denied that when the man is on, he’s dead on. The Chanel gown below is the type to make one draw in a quick, covetous, breath of surprise and awe. It’s quirky, yet supremely elegant; trendy, yet completely unique. For a gown like this I would organize some grand event just to wear it. Speaking of, the Alexis Mabille wedding gown below is similarly awe-inspiring. I would get married just to wear this dress. It is the ultimate in mysterious sexy. Despite yards and yards of fabric, the dress creates an illusion of lucious piece of wrapped fruit ripe for picking. I would wear it completely nude underneath – even barefoot – save a pair of silk, ribbon-tied panties. Hauteness.

Chanel & Alexis Mabille

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photos: Style.com

The sartorial talent of John Galliano has just become a bit more accessible for men:

WWD: What are the design influences in this debut season?
John Galliano: It is pure Galliano. It is inspired by the attitude and anarchy of the London rock scene. It’s a very urban attitude. It shares the same DNA as John Galliano Homme. It is quirky, cool, streetwise.

WWD: Why launch this line now?
J.G.: The men’s collection has been steadily growing in content, as well as commercial appeal. It was a good opportunity to streamline the men’s collection and create a diffusion that would enable us to expand our clientele, as well as the characteristics of [the Galliano wearer]. It’s not just women that want more choice, more styles, more options. I want to establish a diffusion line that would complement [the main line] and could pepper a man’s wardrobe with all the essentials, and Galliano flavor.

WWD: Who do you see wearing it?
J.G.: Everyone and anyone. This is for guys that have their own ideas, own identity and want to express themselves through style.

WWD: Will you wear it?
J.G.: Of course. With men’s wear I have a rule: If I won’t wear it, we won’t produce it.

Source: WWD.com

There have been plenty of lovely collections this season. Tracy Reese was nice, Christopher Kane was inspiring, and of course my Galliano delivered for Dior. But not until now has any collection made me gasp with delight. Such is the case for Givenchy Spring 2010. Riccardo Tisci is pretty much my hero right now – well on his way to Cult sainthood. The fall couture collection was amazing and now this… *swoon*

It was hard to edit down, as the entire show was amazing, but view the Cult picks below. Click for larger views.

photos: wwd.com

At first glance I thought the arrival pics from the Dior Spring 2010 show were the most interesting about the event. But after viewing the video, I realize that still pics simply don’t do the collection justice. Sorry I doubted you my dear Galliano :/

Icon von Teese looks like she could have stepped straight from the runway of this show, n’est pas? Um… except for the whole head-to-toe leather thing… Cult picks below.