“In 90 years, we haven’t changed the mood of the magazine. It’s still very audacious. It’s still about beauty. It’s still about excess. It’s still very avant-garde. When we started to do the research, we discovered the same mood in the past, so we are very happy to feel that we are still looking like the iconic Vogue of Newton and Guy Bourdin. We try to be sophisticated, while a little on the edge all the time. But what I can see is that now, the censoring is bigger than it was 20, 30 or 40 years ago. I think we have less freedom. Today some pictures would not even be publishable. It’s not just about the nudity, but when you talk about things politically, the military, kids, it would all be politically incorrect and not publishable today.” Source

See Roitfeld’s riveting “Bal Masque” editorial, shot by Mert & Marcus and featuring more Lara plus Freja Beha Erichsen, Crystal Renn, Daphne Groeneveld and Mariacarla Boscono below.

See the rest at FashionGoneRogue

Roitfeld’s comments about censorship do seem valid – and especially so in American publications. The temperament of reader (viewers) these days doesn’t seem to tolerate political and social irony very well at all – at least not in a fashion magazine.

Naomi Campbell is featured on the cover of Interview magazine’s October 2010 issue. And despite the fact that the cover plainly states the title of her feature as “A Controversial Life” the reactions to the dark and bloody spread inside have often been of the “this won’t do anything for her reputation” variety. Sigh…

See the rest at FashionGoneRogue

There’s something going on in the fashion world. An uprising is brewing and the Wintours and Lagerfelds on high are being forced to recognize that their body ideals are destructive and unrealistic. The people are angry (low calorie diets tend to make you cranky) and ready for change. And like so many rebellions in history, when the people start to stir the powers that be throw them a bone to try to quiet them. Enter Vogue Curvy. No, it’s not a magazine, it’s a section of Vogue Italia’s online presence found at vogue.it/en/vogue-curvy.

Vogue Curvy is devoted to … women with figures. That section leads with a video interview with Crystal Renn, who talks about how amazing life became when she decided to stop starving herself and eat salad with salmon and walnuts on it. Source: The Cut – nymag.com/daily/fashion

A quick look at the site and I found it sparsely appointed and featuring content more than two years old. Then they have the nerve to list Liz Tyler as a curvy icon! If you’re looking for inspiration for plus size fashion, Vogue Curvy will probably not be your best bet. Like most “separate but equal” efforts, these facilities are outdated and underfunded. I should mention, too, that the launch of this new mini-site is simultaneous to the launches of Vogue Black and Vogue Talents – which are devoted to black people in fashion and emerging designers, respectively. The message from the biggest fashion franchise in the world: it’s okay if you’re fat, black, or unknown, but we don’t have room for you in our stately halls.

What’s next? A “fat” section at fashion shows for anyone larger than a size 4? Will a size 6 with long legs and a good girdle be considering “passing?” Can the separate but equal routine work in the longterm? American history says the answer to that is a resounding NO.

My outlook isn’t entirely cynical. I realize that many movements start with superficial, well-intentioned-but-awful measures. Ultimately, however, we can’t rely on a franchise whose High Priestess is the likes of Anna Wintour to provide us with meaningful angles on fashion for average women. Thankfully, the blogosphere is officially on fire and there are plenty of plus & real-size fashion blogs that translate fashion Culture into advice for the average woman. Here’s a quick reading list:

Black Cat Plus
Fat Chic
The Manfattan Project
Big Girls Browse
The Budget Fashionista
Fat Girls Like Nice Clothes Too
Pretty Pear
Le Blog de Big Beauty
Fatshionable
Fat and Fab Chic

V Magazine’s “Size Issue” hits the newstands January 14, 2010. Judging from the preview (courtesy of Models.com), the magazine will face the size-ist realities of fashion head on… but with polite preservation of the status quo. Is it just me or has Crystal Renn shaved off a pound or ten? Seems like cheating…

In the photos you see here “plus sized” model Renn is juxtapose a model of standard size (i.e. skinny). The two wear identical outfits to show how thick body compares to a thin one in the same get up. Depending on what side of the fence you’re on, you can use these to argue your point: “women with meat on there bones are sexier and more beautiful,” or “clothes look better on women with slight figures,” or “they both look great and there should be diversity of size in fashion,” or WHATEVER.

Photog: Terry Richardson
Stylist: Mel Ottenberg
MUA: Frank B (The Wall Group)
Hair Stylist: Peter Gray for Cutler Salong and Redken
Models: Jacquelyn Jablonski and Crystal Renn (Ford NY)

Source: V Magazine via Models.com

Lizzie Miller, the 20-year-old model in question, agrees that it’s astonishing that, at 5ft 11in and 12.5 stone she’s considered a “plus size” model. “It’s sad,” she says. “In the industry anything over size six is considered a plus-size.” Miller, who is around a US size 12-14 (that is, either average or slightly below average) lost about 60lb when she was 13 but today she is considered too large to model for plus-size lines Marina Rinaldi (she says, “they like girls who are an 8-10″) or Elena Miro. She says that the overwhelming reaction to the tiny photograph, buried on page 194 of Glamour magazine “shows that the world is hungry to see pictures of normal women.”

One wouldn’t have thought this would be news. As Miller says, “pretty much every picture in a magazine or ad is airbrushed . . . I don’t think the public understands how much smoke and mirrors are involved in making women look like that.” Source

(12.5 stone = 175 lbs, for we yanks)

It seems folks are really starting to take this weight thing head on. Could there really be some revolution in the fashion industry? Are people fed up with coke-fed skeleton’s being the style standard? Well… not quite. That day will come when a 150-lb model does NOT make an international splash simply for her size.

So all you fashionistas and fashionistos out there starving yourself for fashion week or any other silly event, carry on with your starvation and purging… for now. Mmmm, can’t you hear the lovely sound of chew & spit?

Check this out: model Crystal Renn used to be anorexic. Now she’s being featured in Australian Harper’s Bazaar in all her real woman glory. Lately there’s been attention to the whitewash that is the currently model breed. But, truthfully, diversity is less needed via color, than via size representation.

Honestly, I don’t understand why the fashion powers that be don’t see how using a more diverse range of sizes would be good for business. If you’re the average American woman, these photos are far more identifiable and therefor more likely to inspire you to imitation.

I mean, c’mon. When I see the toothpick-legged chick in UK Elle’s May issue, I don’t wonder where I could buy the clothes… I wonder how much coke I’d have to do to look as starved as she does. Booooo!

Photo Source

Rhinestone Halter. Available at Neiman Marcus, $370

Notte by Marchesa. Available at Neiman Marcus, $760

Laundry by Shelli Segal. Available at Neiman Marcus, $225

Carmen Marc Valvo. Available at Nordstrom, $500.

Betsey Johnson. Available at Neiman Marcus, $320.

BCBG Max Azria, Embroidered Tulle. Available at Nordstrom, $278.

Amsale Party Collection, Velvet. Available at Neiman Marcus, $595.

Bruno Frisoni

Stuart Weitzmann, Satin with Crystal-covered heels. Available at Nordstrom, $420.

Jose & Maria Berrera, Red Stone earrings. Available at Neiman Marcus, $275.

These are beautiful, but they can hit your bank account pretty hard if you’re the average Jane Schmo (like me). Knock-offs and discount brands will do fine too – just don’t expect them to last as long and be prepared to add the pizazz and personality with accessories.

Isaac Mizrahi for Target. On sale for $36.

Isaac Mizrahi for Target. On sale for $32.

Red Faceted Pendant. Available at Target, $16.

Satin Pumps. Available at Payless, $23.

Vintage-style handbag. Also at Payless, $15.

Forever 21 has some cute stuff too… but they won’t let me swipe their pics.

Happy Holidays!

Tags: holiday parties, fashion, cocktail dresses, red, christmas, channakuh, new year’s eve, shoes, accessories, holiday parties

Powered by Qumana