"Runways Fade to White" A Repost from the NY Times

"[I]f there is one area where the lessons of chromatic and racial diversity have gone largely unheeded, it is fashion. This reality was never plainer than during the recent showings of the women’s spring 2008 collections in New York and Europe.

Although black women in the United States spend more than $20 billion on apparel each year, according to estimates by TargetMarketNews.com, it was hard to discern an awareness of this fact on the part of designers showing in New York, where black faces were more absent from runways than they have been in years." Click here to read the rest of the article by Guy Trebay...


It's funny. I tend to be fairly racially aware, but I hardly noticed this. I like to call myself someone who doesn't see color when it comes to fashion, but perhaps I'm just kidding myself. Maybe my brain is so thoroughly washed that I only think I don't see. I'm a black woman, with natural hair, who loves the sun, et cetera. Still I never really wanted to be a caricature of an angry black woman with nothing to say outside of the subject of race. I want to appreciate the beauty of a blonde hair or a blue eye without feeling resentful, guilty, or self-hating. The reality remains, however, that popular standards of beauty are very very narrow. Perhaps I should be not more angry, but more vocal about the exclusive representation of beauty in the fashion world. Honestly, I prefer to be more occupied with the clothes than the models, but it must be said: WE WANT MORE MODELS OF COLOR ON THE RUNWAYS!!!!! Okay, did anyone hear that? Anyone? Bueller?

Black models seen on the runways this season. With the exception of Chanel Iman, They really were hard to find. I didn't realize it until I tried.

Alek Wek in Diane Von Furstenberg


Naomi Campbell in Louis Vuitton


Chanel Iman Robinson in Etro


Liya Kebede in Derek Lam


Ajama Nasanyana in Charles Nolan


Honorine Uwera in Baby Phat

Tags: louis vuitton, diane von furstenberg, charles nolan, Derek Lam, Etro, Baby Phat, black models, modeling, fashion industry, race, racism, beauty standards, Runway, fashion shows

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Paris Spring 2008: Trendspotting

It's true that Paris is not The Cult's favorite fashion week, but it cannot be denied that the city is still at the helm of the fashion world. Shows in the City of Lights tend more toward the avant garde than in any other of the four best knows fashion weeks (New York, London, Milan, Paris). Accordingly, the French capital is the best place to do a little trendspotting. Some of what you see here will be in New York too... in about 3 years.

Trend 1: Suddenly See-Thru
This is one of those maddening trends that taunts and teases the average fashion-lover. Sure, if you a runway-strutting model, or a daredevil red carpet dweller, this is great. But for us everyday smucks, this see-thru crap is about as useful as cup with the bottom cut out.

A.F. Vandevorst


Christian Dior


Karl Lagerfield


Andrew Gn


Celine





Trend 2: Extreme Asymmetry
We're not talking a crooked hemline or a one shoulder gown here. I mean, it-looks-like-two-completely-different-outfits-sewn-together kind of asymmetry. This, too, is hard for us common folk to pull off. But it a lot less likely to get you a public nudity charge.

Chloe


Commes Des Garcons


Yohji Yamamoto


Yves Saint Laurent





Trend 3: Over-the-Top Florals
Aack! It seems that someone has over-fertilized the fashion soil for next year, because the floral prints have run an absolute muck. Not only are there tons of flowers, there are tons of colors and tons of print mixing. This is an extremely delicate look to pull off. Some of the models couldn't even do it.

Dries Van Noten


Paul & Joe


Nina Ricci


Balenciaga


Kenzo





Trend 4: Color Gradation
There must have been some kind of new technology that made this kind of fabric easier to make. Or maybe it's just one of those "spontaneous" resurgences in such things as rainbows. Anyhow, color shifting garments are h ho hot.

Alexander McQueen


Givenchy


A.F. Vandevorst


Anne Valerie Hash





Trend 5: Future Fix
After several seasons of being mired in retro looks, fashion is turning again toward looking ahead. Designers are present the suppositions on what will be chic post-Jetsons and Star Trek.

Alexander McQueen


Balenciaga


Celine


Maison Martin Margiela

Tags: paris, spring, fashion, 2008, trends, style, runway, designer, chloe, balenciaga, yves saint laurent, celine, givenchy, karl lagerfield, christain dior

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Fashion in Art: C Beijer's "Kingston Options"

One of C Beijer's photo-like fantasies. Click for more...


The pattern mix and 70s vibe in the painting are very now. Myself, I'd probably skip the cheetah print... and the guns.

Resort 2008

Resort shows aren't my favorite. They sit in a strange place in between Fall shows and the fall season that make them seem strange and irrelevant. There is rarely major progress or changes in perspective.

Trends in Resort 2008: oversized hats, polka dots, pleats, ruffles, 50s ladies, 20s deco. Scroll each box for my favorites from each show.


Dior
High glam and high color, Dior's Resort 2008 collection was very ladylike with 50s flair and south Asian spice. Regal.

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Oscar De La Renta
Precise tailoring and ultra-feminine shapes

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Carolina Herrera
Crisp and clean without being boring; Dig the shoes with the third dress.

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Alberta Ferretti
Neutral colors, but in fabulous 20s shapes and silouetttes.

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Chanel
Not entirely sure about the peep-toe boots, but I like the soft rock-n-roll vibe.

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Badgley Mischka
Gorgeous color and look at how they move.

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Luca Luca
I almost didn't include Luca Luca due to the horrible way they styled the garments. These dresses are pretty, but the hats make me want to scratch my eyes out. Yuck!

Tags: runway shows, fashion, designer clothing, luca luca, chanel, badgley mischka, oscar de la renta, carolina herrera, alberta ferreti, resort, 2008, trends

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Art or Not: Hirst's "For the Love of God"

He calls it "a celebration against death." Damien Hirst, the artist known for his controversial pickled sheep and such pieces, has unveiled his latest work, titled For the Love of God.



The piece is a human skull covered in 8,601 flawless diamonds, including one 52-carat pear-shaped whopper of a stone in the middle of the skull's forehead. The piece has a stunning £50 million price tag (that's close to $100 million for us yanks), although the artist reportedly wants the piece to remain in public display for a while before going into private collection.



I'm still undecided on this one. One perspective says the the so-called art is ridiculously self-indulgent, and that Hirst is simply a publicity hound. But then I can't deny the provocative value of the way the two materials mix. Most of us in the west tend to automatically associate the image of a skull with death - and these are negative associations at that. Meanwhile, the skull has every bit, and perhaps more, to do with life than with death. And then there's the symbol of the diamond: purity, eternity, luxury... Hirst twists the western mind back on itself by forcing us to simultaneously contemplate something we fear and deny with something after which we lust. It's true that the subject of diamonds and death (re: Kenye West, the movie "Blood Diamonds" etc.) is something of a fad right now. Perhaps, though, it's a fad worth encouraging. And afterall, who says art shouldn't be self-indulgent and attention-seeking. On the contrary, that may be exactly what it's for.

What do you think? Please leave your comments and links.

Tags: damien hirst, art, skulls, diamonds, fads

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The Mood This Season: 70s

Okay, okay, I surrender. I am finally ready to submit to the layerless digs of the Spring/Summer season. I guess the heat's not so bad - especially when I've the time and resources to hit the beach on a regular. Best of all, I'm starting to find warm-weather pieces that I can stomach. In fact, there are few that I may even look forward to wearing. For the most part I'm super excited to express this uber 70s mood I've been moving into since last summer. I'm ready to go full blast now, with the long flowy fabrics, the super high-waisted pants, and the disco influences. Hey, I might even welcome an open shirt or two on a well-dressed man (handle with care, guys). A few designers were hip to the vibe when they showed SS07 last year, but most were still stuck on 60s mod. Here are few of the leaders of the pack.

Blugirl


Julian McDonald


Gwen Stefani for L.A.M.B.


Grey Ant


Tracy Reese


Erin Fetherston


Costello Tagilapietra


Atil Kotuglu


Roberto Cavalli

Fall 07 Mens: Oversized Sweaters

This isn't a trend that I much care for, but I had to note it. These kinds of trends always intrigue me; i wonder about what's in the air that's triggering sloppy silouettes. I'll throw it in the grunge-is-back pile.

Tags: fall, fashion, designer, runway, style, trends, sweaters, ysl, missoni, dries van noten, burberry

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Fall 07 Mens: Geek Chic

We saw it on the street first, now it's on the runway. Fashion has decided to embrace the beauty of geekiness. From thick-framed glasses to bow ties to highwater pants, it seems that nerdy-types are finally gething their revenge... on the runway. I, having always had a thing for unapologetic brainiacs, absolutely love it!

D&G



Gianfranco Ferre



Moschino



Marni



Emporio Armani



Etro



Paul Smith



Alexander McQueen



Yves Saint Laurent



Roberto Cavalli

Tags: Fall, fashion, runway, style, cavalli, moschino, paul smith, missoni, d&g, armani, marni, geek chic, trends, men's fashion

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Spring Accessories Report: Industrial

It's a sign of the times. Maybe it's the war(s); maybe it's a nostalgic response to today's nut&bolt free machinery; maybe it's The War. Whatever it is, all things metal are big in pop culture right now. Fashion is no exception.

Mulberry


Gucci


Zac Posen


Tom Binns

Tags: spring, accessories, shoes, handbags, jewelry, industrial, war, fashion, gucci, zac posen, tom binns, mulberry

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Spring Accessories Report: Plastics

Plastic isn't generally considered a luxury textile. Right now, however, designers are enticing well-heeled shopper to spend thousands on accessories made from PVC, lucite, plexiglass, and other transparent plastics.

I don't really see these as great investment pieces. Not only is the material less than luxurious, it's not the most durable of trends. But if I had money to burn... these aren't bad.

Oscar De La Renta


Valentino


Narciso Rodriguez


Chanel


Brian Atwood
I think these are especially adorable, but I'd be very careful about how I wore them. Plastic heels inevitably remind me of strippers.


Alexander McQueen


Alexandra Neel


Alessandro Dell'Acqua

Tags: spring, fashion, style, trends, accessories, handbags, shoes, oscar de la renta, chanel, narciso rodriguez, valentino, plastic, pvc, lucite, plexiglass

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Spring Accessories Report: Metallics

I would have thought that designers would slow down on the metallics by now, but the shiny trend is still going strong. Gold and silver lames and leathers are everywhere in designer accessories. Here are some of the best.

Chloe


Chanel


Marc Jacobs


Hogan


Christain Louboutin


Dior


Manolo Blahnik


Tod's


Burberry (an example of the trend gone horribly, horribly wrong)



Click to shopVintage Options @ Bags&Baubles



Additional photos at BagsNBaubles.blogspot.com

Tags: purses, handbags, shoes, vintage purses, vintage handbags, spring accessories, 2007, chanel, dior, christain louboutin, manolo blahnik, marc jacobs, silver, gold, metallics, tod's

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