"Runways Fade to White" A Repost from the NY Times

"[I]f there is one area where the lessons of chromatic and racial diversity have gone largely unheeded, it is fashion. This reality was never plainer than during the recent showings of the women’s spring 2008 collections in New York and Europe.

Although black women in the United States spend more than $20 billion on apparel each year, according to estimates by TargetMarketNews.com, it was hard to discern an awareness of this fact on the part of designers showing in New York, where black faces were more absent from runways than they have been in years." Click here to read the rest of the article by Guy Trebay...


It's funny. I tend to be fairly racially aware, but I hardly noticed this. I like to call myself someone who doesn't see color when it comes to fashion, but perhaps I'm just kidding myself. Maybe my brain is so thoroughly washed that I only think I don't see. I'm a black woman, with natural hair, who loves the sun, et cetera. Still I never really wanted to be a caricature of an angry black woman with nothing to say outside of the subject of race. I want to appreciate the beauty of a blonde hair or a blue eye without feeling resentful, guilty, or self-hating. The reality remains, however, that popular standards of beauty are very very narrow. Perhaps I should be not more angry, but more vocal about the exclusive representation of beauty in the fashion world. Honestly, I prefer to be more occupied with the clothes than the models, but it must be said: WE WANT MORE MODELS OF COLOR ON THE RUNWAYS!!!!! Okay, did anyone hear that? Anyone? Bueller?

Black models seen on the runways this season. With the exception of Chanel Iman, They really were hard to find. I didn't realize it until I tried.

Alek Wek in Diane Von Furstenberg


Naomi Campbell in Louis Vuitton


Chanel Iman Robinson in Etro


Liya Kebede in Derek Lam


Ajama Nasanyana in Charles Nolan


Honorine Uwera in Baby Phat

Tags: louis vuitton, diane von furstenberg, charles nolan, Derek Lam, Etro, Baby Phat, black models, modeling, fashion industry, race, racism, beauty standards, Runway, fashion shows

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Paris Spring 2008: Trendspotting

It's true that Paris is not The Cult's favorite fashion week, but it cannot be denied that the city is still at the helm of the fashion world. Shows in the City of Lights tend more toward the avant garde than in any other of the four best knows fashion weeks (New York, London, Milan, Paris). Accordingly, the French capital is the best place to do a little trendspotting. Some of what you see here will be in New York too... in about 3 years.

Trend 1: Suddenly See-Thru
This is one of those maddening trends that taunts and teases the average fashion-lover. Sure, if you a runway-strutting model, or a daredevil red carpet dweller, this is great. But for us everyday smucks, this see-thru crap is about as useful as cup with the bottom cut out.

A.F. Vandevorst


Christian Dior


Karl Lagerfield


Andrew Gn


Celine





Trend 2: Extreme Asymmetry
We're not talking a crooked hemline or a one shoulder gown here. I mean, it-looks-like-two-completely-different-outfits-sewn-together kind of asymmetry. This, too, is hard for us common folk to pull off. But it a lot less likely to get you a public nudity charge.

Chloe


Commes Des Garcons


Yohji Yamamoto


Yves Saint Laurent





Trend 3: Over-the-Top Florals
Aack! It seems that someone has over-fertilized the fashion soil for next year, because the floral prints have run an absolute muck. Not only are there tons of flowers, there are tons of colors and tons of print mixing. This is an extremely delicate look to pull off. Some of the models couldn't even do it.

Dries Van Noten


Paul & Joe


Nina Ricci


Balenciaga


Kenzo





Trend 4: Color Gradation
There must have been some kind of new technology that made this kind of fabric easier to make. Or maybe it's just one of those "spontaneous" resurgences in such things as rainbows. Anyhow, color shifting garments are h ho hot.

Alexander McQueen


Givenchy


A.F. Vandevorst


Anne Valerie Hash





Trend 5: Future Fix
After several seasons of being mired in retro looks, fashion is turning again toward looking ahead. Designers are present the suppositions on what will be chic post-Jetsons and Star Trek.

Alexander McQueen


Balenciaga


Celine


Maison Martin Margiela

Tags: paris, spring, fashion, 2008, trends, style, runway, designer, chloe, balenciaga, yves saint laurent, celine, givenchy, karl lagerfield, christain dior

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New York, Spring 08 Shows: The Cult Picks

Alexandre Herchcovitch stands apart for the typical New York-showing line. The couture-esque designs seem more like something that might show in Paris. That said, the Cult is glad to have it stateside to break the boredom of sportswear and starlet-produced fashion. The tux trend has been brewing for a few seasons now, with the cumberbun making a frequent appearance in the spring shows. Herchocovitch does it obtusely well with bare shoulders, short shorts, and bowties.





Proenza Schouler looked, at times, like a Fall show with the sleeves and tights ripped off. Still, I'm loving the warm weather layering, vest-on-vest thing going on. The design duo must be too distracted by all that Target cash, because this line didn't do much in the way of forwarding fashion. Careful not to rest on those laurels too long boys. The fashion world is worst that music when it comes to dumping it's once-adored golden guys and girls.

And then the detestable one shoulder dress, which fashionistas are trying to shove down our throats these days. Now and then I see one that tolerable, but their generally presence on the scene is a nuisance..

Doo.Ri was absolutely yummy. In a season when fuschia and cerulean are all the rage, the beige and black of Doo.Ri seemed to speak loudest of all. The lines are clean, but the cuts are striking. This wins my vote for best innovation. It's somehow futuristic without looking like a line of Jetson cartoons. Hooray for forward thinkers!

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With all the blase red carpet fashion we've witness in the last few days, where was Jason Wu? His designs seem perfect for the celebrity worship events. Let's hope that when asked that inevitable question on the carpet, more starlets will be replying, "I'm wearing Wu."








And finally, kudos to Tracy Reese for taking some risks and adding some funk to her usually ladylike and pretty box. I'm loving the color combos, the patterns, the sequins, and even that frighteningly red Red Suit. Go brown girl, go brown girl, go!

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Honorable mentions to

L.A.M.B.,


Malandrino,


and Temperly.

Tags: doo.ri, alexandre herchcovitchdoo.ri, l.a.m.b., temperly, proenza schouler, tracy reese, malandrino, fashion week, spring 2008, new york, jason wu

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Haute HoroscopeTM CANCER

Cancer is watery, sensitive, prone to moodiness, and domestic. If you manage to breach it's resistant shell, you find a tender, nurturing soul who can be loyal for life. Cancer is an artist with fixation on domestic bliss. It is fascinated with history and tradition.

You may be or may know someone whose birthday is around this time and think to yourself, "I/he/she is nothing like that!" First, never underestimate a crab's ability to hide behind it's shell. Secondly, recognize that sun signs (the portion of the sky the sun was in at your birth), though they are the most commonly known, are far from a complete astrological picture.

It's important to note that Cancer, like other signs, is representative of an energy - a set of traits and tendencies. Accordingly, crab-like characteristics can be found in people born all year round. In my experience, Cancer-types always have a sharp sense of style that's chic but never too loud, never costumed. At it's best, there's fashion flair without trash of trends. Cancer is Silver, Pearl, Opal, White, Yellow

Check out these virtual couples for looks from the Resort 2008 and Mens Spring 2008 shows that highlight canceresque moods.

Emporia Armani & Versace


Ports 1961 & Vivienne Westwood


Burberry Prosum & Stella McCartney


Jason Wu & Emporia Armani


Byblos & Stella McCartney


Versace & Burberry Prosum

Tags: haute horoscope, astrology, cancer, style, versace, burberry prosum, stella mccartney, emporio armani, mens spring 2008, resort 2008, runway, fashion

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In Defense of John Galliano

Recently, I came across a blogger ridiculing John Galliano's Spring '08 Menswear collection. "Any person picked randomly off the streets could throw together a collection like this," wrote one commenter. Naturally, I was AGHAST. As you may know, The Cult reveres Mr. Galliano's contribution to fashion, so a defense of our reverence was immediately in order.

Certainly, I can see how fashion lovers of pedestrian tastes might find Galliano a bit inaccessible. He is among the designers that consistently achieve the reminder that fashion is so much more than mall culture and celebrity worship. That is, it can be. Like in any form of art, fashion can serve as a retrospective, a mirror, or a crystal ball for the world at large. Galliano's Spring 2008 menswear collection seems to reflect the current climate of the world and even glance a ways into the future.

Shirtless, tanned, and slightly dirty, models wear fatigues and newsprint with scarves around their faces.

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Scarves move from the face to the head, looking very much like the traditional middle-eastern headdress. Note the cigars.

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Berets and shades. The obvious casting of the segment of the collection made it clear that the show meant to recall the Black Panthers. In this case, though, I think the focus is on the militial, not the racial, aspect of the story he is telling.

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And then the fringe. These are the ones that refuse to choose any side. Note the neon pink and the grafitti-clad limbs.

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Tags: john galliano, galliano, runway, mens spring 2008, designers, pop culture, war, art

The Mood This Season: 70s

Okay, okay, I surrender. I am finally ready to submit to the layerless digs of the Spring/Summer season. I guess the heat's not so bad - especially when I've the time and resources to hit the beach on a regular. Best of all, I'm starting to find warm-weather pieces that I can stomach. In fact, there are few that I may even look forward to wearing. For the most part I'm super excited to express this uber 70s mood I've been moving into since last summer. I'm ready to go full blast now, with the long flowy fabrics, the super high-waisted pants, and the disco influences. Hey, I might even welcome an open shirt or two on a well-dressed man (handle with care, guys). A few designers were hip to the vibe when they showed SS07 last year, but most were still stuck on 60s mod. Here are few of the leaders of the pack.

Blugirl


Julian McDonald


Gwen Stefani for L.A.M.B.


Grey Ant


Tracy Reese


Erin Fetherston


Costello Tagilapietra


Atil Kotuglu


Roberto Cavalli

Holding on to Fall

A reprieve! Thank goodness for this little cold snap we've had here in Atlanta. It's allowed me to hang on to my love affair with fall for just a bit longer. There are still great fall/winter clothes that i didn't get around to wearing yet! Friday night's chill came just in time for me to wear this long rust-colored sweater i've been meaning to sport all season long.



I went out to Castleberry for the art crawl but missed most of the galleries waiting on friends and looking for good parking. The highlights:

75mixedmedium, featuring artists Nagisa Higashida and Daniel Osborne (check back for a review).


Also, Photograms and animation by Scott Hall at Krause gallery


*reprinted from the blog at my silly Space.

Haute for Spring: the Best of Couture 2007

Prepare to indulge in the fantasy world of mortgage-priced couture. The cream of the cream of the crop, in alphabetical order, de moi a toi:

Armani Prive


Chanel


Dior


Gaultier


Givenchy


Christain Lacroix


Valentino

Tags: chanel, christain lacroix, armani prive, gaultier, valentino, dior, givenchy, fashion, runway, haute couture

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