On behalf of their director Phoebe Philo, the PR team at Celine says the label’s Pre-Fall 2012 collection is, simply, “a continuation of the Céline wardrobe.” How refreshing!

Now I’m no stranger to being seized with inspiration after taking in an exceptional book, album, or landscape. So I understand when designers are moved to craft entire collections around their muse of the moment. But the whims of the artist-designer along with the industry’s hamster wheel of a trend-driven calendar makes it such that fashionistas are constantly running to keep up with what’s hot.

How many times have you seen some starlet wearing an item that was shown on the runway only days before? The culture is so warped that the “it” thing to do is to wear items two seasons in advance! It’s a complete farce for the average consumer (though effective in keeping the aspirational tone amidst the industry’s so-called democratization).

That’s why I like to see labels producing and promoting continuity, rather than mad dashes and sharp turns with every new collection. Not only is it more genuine, it’s conducive to being able to get your designer gear from the clearance rack with less worry that the -ista gang will snub you for being late… But then, who really cares what that pack thinks, anyway?

Source

photos: WWD.com

With only these tiny, 2-D representations of of the clothing it can be hard to relate to reports of attendees crying at the sight of the hand-sewn creations gliding down the runway. Granted, the alleged crier was Monsieur Lesage, himself. The legendary couturier responsible for Chanel’s embroidery. Considering the upwards of 350 hours of work that go into the making of a single couture garment of this caliber, one can imagine the tear jerking effect of seeing your labor of love finally sashay down the runway on the slim hips of an underfed, underpaid model… And just imagine, they do this twice a year.

Indeed a haute couturier is a rare and strange bird. One who often guards it’s secrets like newly hatched eggs. “Mademoiselle Pouzeux, who does the braids for couture. She has a secret and she wants nobody to know,” Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld said in an interview. “We cannot find anyone to work with her. She does it all alone. She only works for couture because she cannot produce enough for ready-to-wear. And no one knows how she does it.” See the video of this interview below. But before you do that, enjoy some hi-res detail photos of the two looks from above. Still not like actually getting to put them on yourself, but they do better convey the astounding intricacies of the clothing. A sincere thanks to two of my new favorite tumblrs: pellucidus & Emmi Camille

The below image is of the 1927 painting “Kiss” – a work by the French artist Marie Laurencin, whose art Lagerfeld references in the interview (and in the collection, apparently). As the designer implied, the murky color palette is really the only thing that’s reflected in the Chanel collection. There’s something about Laurencin’s paintings that strikes me at the soul level. Aesthetically it’s not a style that I would choose, but it somehow provokes nostalgia for a time I never experienced. It resonates with me in a way that’s not entirely pleasant, but I suppose that’s the sort of bittersweet attraction that good art often has. See more Laurencin works via kroshka_50369.

About Elie Saab
“Born in Beirut on the fourth of July, Saab’s interest is dressmaking started at the young age of 9… In 1982 Elie Saab opened his firt atelier in Lebanon at the age of 18 with ten employees…

Saab’s breakthrough moment came in July of 2003 when he showed his Haute Couture collection in Paris as an officially invited member of the Chambre Syndicale. The response from the press and retailers was overwhelming. Two years later in Ocober of 2005, Saab launched his expanded ready-to-wear collection on the Paris runway and has made his second there.” Quoted from ElieSaab.com

Elie Saab Fall 2010 Couture

Elie Saab Fall 2010 RTW

In honor of tonight’s finale of Project Runway season 8, we feature Season 6 alum Althea Harper‘s latest collection for Spring-Summer 2011. Harper, who narrowly lost the win to designer Irina Shabeyeva, showed a much matured and polished version of her reality TV self at a presentation during New York Fashion Week in September.

Harper’s SS11 collection is characterized by modern feminity in a palette conducive to easy intergration into your current wardrobe. Learn more about the designer on her website. Click photo below for larger views.

When I saw the excessive, lopsided, and over-sized cuffs on the Viktor & Rolf runway they struck a chord somewhere deep in my nostalgia centers, and I started craving candy corn and Treehouse of Horror episodes (might be the weather, too). Then it hit me: “It’s tucked into my socks!” The wonky collars and cuffs look strikingly like the failed Gorden Gartrell knock-off made by Denise Huxtable for her younger brother Theo on a 1984 episode of “The Cosby Show.” A classic moment of an epic series. Watch the episode below.

I love that the resolution of the story is that Theo’s friends prefer the artsy, avant garde appeal of his homemade shirt over the flash of the designer label. Hopefully, though, they grew up to fuse that perspective with an appreciate for quality materials and craftsmanship. Amsterdam-based label Viktor & Rolf is the embodiment of this ideal and while there are wild looks in the Spring 2011 collection that indulge the artistic urges of designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, there are also several very smart, buyable pieces that even a safe fashion-lover might try.

photos: Viciously Sweet, YOUR MOTHER SHOULD KNOW

Though the film seems like a decent way to streamline the task of showing a new collection, I wonder if it can ever really replace the visceral experience of seeing clothing moving on a real body right in front of you. These are textiles we’re talking about, after all. Pugh’s film is beautifully made, striking to look at, and evokes real emotion that will, no doubt, be inextricably tied to the garments. But in the end stills of veteran supermodel Kristen McMenamy and a male model looking as though they were walking the runway were taken anway. And good thing! Otherwise I might have missed how utterly amazing are the women’s trousers!

photos via WWD.com

Watch the video here courtesy of SHOWstudio.com, where you can also buy a limited edition scarf from the collection right now.

Ever wonder what Donatella Versace & Christopher Kane’s love child would look like? If you’re curious, look no further than the Versus Spring 2011 collection. Though it’s Versace’s second fiddle brand, some people are saying that the line – designed by British fashion star Christopher Kane – is outshining the main Versace line itself. It’s a pretty mighty assertion, and one I don’t altogether agree with, but it seems to be giving the little collection a set of sturdy legs. From what I can tell it seems like a true collaborative effort, and Donatella’s fondness of Kane speaks to that as well. She says that he “reminds her of her late brother, and could someday be in the running to design that exalted primary brand,” reports The Wall Street Journal.

“I never thought I’d find anybody I could trust like I trust Christopher,” Donatells told W magazine. “And now it’s so strange. I start to say a sentence and he (would) finish it – just like me and Gianni.”

An official statement from Christopher Kane on the Versus Spring 2011 that recently showed in Milan, followed by hi-res photos:

For this Versus SS11 collection I played with combining floral, tartan stripe prints from the Versus archive, to achieve twisted and drape mesh dresses. The colour palette is very bright and optimistic (yellow, green, purple, orange, red and blue). I have worked printed mesh into longer, leaner dresses, and knitwear for a more casual sporty/grungy approach. The core of the collection is multi drape stretch mesh dresses using layers of printed mesh. Short comes in multicoloured pop dresses. Shoes and bags feature print and brogue details.

Max Osterweis started Suno in 2008 after years of visiting Kenya and collecting textiles from the east African country. He later teamed with Erin Beatty to design collections in New York City and employ Kenyan artisans to produce the clothing, which is as of Fall 2010 was exclusively available in the U.S. The A/W 2010 collection included a great selection of dresses and jackets, but an online search of where to buy the brand produced just a smattering of items at Barney’s, Otte NY, and Opening Ceremony.

The label’s showing at New York Fashion Week this past Saturday, however, may have completely changed the scope of availability for the burgeoning company. According to an off-the-cuff tweet by Matches Fashion Director Bridget Cosgrove, the London-based fashion guidepost will stock pieces from the Spring/Summer 2011 collection. Cosgrove praised the “fabulous ethnic print combo’s with sophisticated twist colours” and womenswear buyer Georgina Gainza echoed the applause, calling the line “the new Dries.” If she means Dries van Noten, as I assume, that’s a pretty mighty compliment.

It will be interesting to see what ends up on the shelves (or the e-shelves for those of us with an ocean or so between us and London). See some of my favorites from the collection above and below.

via @BridgetCosgrove & @GeorginaGainza
photos: wwd.com

Nonetheless, the Project Runway final collections are still on the Cult radar because they show during New York Fashion Week. Having not been influenced by their previous competition performance or their on-air personalities, I’ve selected my favorites from the ten designers who showed at a very lengthy presentation last week at the Lincoln Center. One of my picks is Ivy Higa, whose collection has an easy luxe appeal and seems the most plugged into the current market. I first thought Ivy would be my favorite to win, but the more I look at Mondo Guerra the more I love it. His collection showed a playful yet sophisticated take on pattern mixing and color that’s sort of Anna Sui meets Luella, with just a splash of Marni in for good measure.

Ivy Higa

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Mondo Guerra

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Valerie Mayen is a somewhat distant third in the Cult rankings, if for not other reason than her very singular perspective. See her work and the rest of the bunch in the galleries below.

Valerie Mayen

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Andy South

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April Johnston

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Casanova

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Christopher Collins

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Gretchen Jones

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Michael Costello

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Michael Drummond

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photos: WWD.com